Types of men's shoes
Analysis before the design of men's shoes: In order to shape the masculinity of men and reflect the sense of authority and status of men, the design of men's shoes generally needs to grasp a rigorous, solemn, noble or straight and rough style. It is reflected in the shape, structural style, color, material, accessories, pattern and other modeling elements of shoes and boots. For high-end men's shoes, exquisite craftsmanship is essential.
Men's shoe design should be divided into categories based on age and class, because the gap between men in these two aspects often leads to great differences in their choice of shoes and boots. The root cause is that the above two factors often make men have different values and aesthetics. Young men usually have strong personalities and pursue trendy, avant-garde and uniquely designed shoes and boots. They prove their existence, an independent spirit, and a kind of arrogance by wearing such personalized shoes and boots. nature.
This pursuit of individuality among young men is prominent in footwear such as sneakers, avant-garde shoes, roller skates, and casual shoes. Therefore, in the design and development of these footwear, shoe designers should try their best to create a unique effect in the appearance of these footwear, in addition to designing more reasonable and sufficient specific functions.
Adult males are becoming more and more psychologically mature, they are gradually rationalizing things, and their personalities are gradually being subtle, which is reflected in the wearing of shoes and boots, and the pursuit of generosity, solemnity and comfort. In addition, the pursuit of social status and power by adult men makes men attach more importance to the symbolic role of many items, such as clothing, shoes, and automobiles. The choice focuses on brand and nobility to show their status and self-cultivation. Therefore, they do not pursue excessively trendy appearance of shoes, but pay more attention to their brand, function, symbolism and comfort.
Through the above analysis, as a men's shoe designer, when designing, you should first classify and analyze the wearing objects, and then design and develop new products according to specific male consumers, specific purposes and occasions.
With the rapid development of today's era, the wearing purpose and occasions of shoes are becoming more and more refined, and men choose different types and styles of shoes in different work and life situations. Although the consumption trend and change of men's shoes is relatively slow compared with women's shoes, it has fully indicated the development direction of men's design in the future. With the application of new technology, the design of men's shoes is bound to have a greater development.
dress shoes
Men's dress shoes are a common type of footwear that are typically paired with formal clothing such as suits. Men's formal shoes, also known as gentlemen's shoes, refer to men's shoes with a solemn and generous appearance without too much decoration (color picture 71). The most typical traditional men's formal shoes are inner ear three-joint leather shoes (Oxford shoes) and outer ear three-joint leather shoes, and strap ear buckle shoes (also known as monk shoes Monk) also belong to formal footwear. Men's formal shoes are not limited to the above styles. Some simple and elegant plain toe shoes, tongue shoes, front opening shoes and "bun" shoes (Moccsin) can be worn as formal shoes.
With the development of the times and the emergence of yuppies, quasi-dress shoes with individual shapes have appeared. These shoes pursue a personality and unique taste in the shape and style on the basis of adhering to the traditional dress shoes. The general last type is not too weird, and sometimes closely follows the fashion of formal shoe lasts, such as shovel head type, square head type, oblique head type, etc., but some unique and individual characteristics are carried out in terms of structure style, material selection and matching, accessories decoration, etc. the design of. On the one hand, men wear dress shoes for specific occasions, and they should be matched with suits and dresses. On the other hand, men choose to wear dress shoes to show their self-cultivation and status.
Therefore, the design of men's formal shoes must be carried out under the overall style of nobility, elegance and generosity, and fully display a delicate craftsmanship in the product, that is, there must be exquisite craftsmanship. The design of men's formal shoes is characterized by subtle and small changes in modeling elements, focusing on the harmony between various modeling elements. The design of high-end dress shoes pays special attention to the selection of high-end materials, including upper materials, sole materials, accessories and various accessories. In addition, the design of dress shoes is greatly influenced by fashion (mainly the last type and the use of materials).
The traditional style three-section dress shoes are basically fixed and stylized, and generally do not make much design changes. For example, there are fixed ratios between the length of the toe cap, the length of the mid-top and the length of the shoe body. The drag foot also has a fixed position, etc. Of course, the shapes, proportions and positions of the above fixed components are not absolutely unchangeable, and slight design changes are also allowed, such as the shoe shape (last shape) being slightly lengthened and thinner. However, the traditional style is almost perfect, and people's aesthetics for it have also been formatted. In order to meet the needs of this part of consumers, the traditional style three-section dress shoes can basically remain unchanged in terms of shape design.
(1) Form design
The shape design of men's formal shoes includes the shape design of the three-dimensional shape of the toe head (last head shape design) and the flat profile shape design of the upper part. The shape design of men's formal shoes generally removes the traditional three-section toe shoes. As mentioned above, this kind of shoes has its fixed and stylized form, which changes its unique style and is often self-defeating. Generally speaking, no matter what kind of structure and style of dress shoes, on the one hand, attention should be paid to controlling the range of changes in their shape, following and pursuing the overall style of dress shoes, and on the other hand, paying attention to the fashion of dress shoes at that time in terms of shape (mainly lasts). type).
The shape design of the horizontal strip tongue type men's formal shoes focuses on the change design of the horizontal strip and the design of the head shape. The horizontal strip can also be regarded as an accessory. The design changes of the horizontal strips are generally completed by decorative techniques such as hollowing out, stringing flowers, weaving flowers, and inlaying. If it is high-end men's formal shoes, the horizontal strips should be elegant and novel in shape, and at the same time, the decoration process to complete this shape should also make people feel exquisite. Dress toe style design not only need to make some subtle styling changes, but also pay attention to the combination with fashion.
The focus of the shape design of the strap ear buckle formal shoes (monk shoes) is the head shape design and the shoe drill shape design. The head shape design should be generous, novel but not exaggerated. The shape of the belt should be in harmony with the style characteristics of the head shape of the shoes. If the head shape is elegant and slender, then the shape of the belt should also be slightly narrow and slender.
(2) Color Design
Men's formal shoes are generally black and brown in color, and usually use a single color scheme, but also can use brown-red, brown-yellow, white, beige, coffee and other colors. The color design of men's formal shoes is greatly influenced by fashion. Due to the purpose and nature of men's formal shoes, the color matching design generally requires a calm and subtle, and cannot use excessively pure and bright colors. If you use two-color matching, use close matching colors.
(3) Material design
Men's formal shoes are generally made of fine grained, soft, smooth and plump fetal leather and calf leather. For high-end men's formal shoes, rare and high-end upper materials are essential, such as crocodile skin, ostrich skin, shark skin, etc. The sole material is often made of natural leather, so that the shoes have better breathability. The design and application of upper materials for high-end men's formal shoes pays great attention to the use of special textures of high-end materials and better ordinary upper materials of other textures. This design can not only save high-end shoe materials, but also make the shoes have a noble feel. In addition, due to the different textures, a contrasting aesthetic can also be formed. The key to the design of the combination of different materials is to be innovative in the arrangement of shapes and positions of different materials.
(4) Accessories design
The design of accessories on dress shoes depends on the structure and style. Generally, no accessories are added to ear three-section head dress shoes and front opening dress shoes. Tongue dress shoes usually need to be equipped with a small sign accessory, or not. ; Add horizontal strip accessories to the tarsal back of tongue-type shoes to become horizontal-striped tongue-type shoes, and there are also various styles of horizontal-striped tongue type. For decorative shoe accessories, there is also a Velcro instead of a shoe. Accessories often play the role of drawing the dragon on dress shoes. Therefore, the design principle of dress shoes accessories is not only to be in harmony with the overall style of the shoes, but also to be highly artistic, so as to truly embellish, beautify and identify. effect.
In addition to the functions of embellishment and beautification, the signs installed on dress shoes also have the practical functions of brand identification and publicity. Whether the brand logo of a shoe-making enterprise is designed to be novel, unique and beautiful directly determines the functional effect of the logo on formal shoes. The signs on dress shoes should be small and slender in size; there are regular outlines in the shape, that is, the sign pattern is in a complete outline shape, and there are also free forms, that is, the sign does not have a regular outline. The shape of the logotype is the letter body or figurative pattern outline of the brand logo.
Dress shoes are generally available in three colors: gold, silver and bronze. Gold and bronze are suitable for dress shoes of various colors. Silver is not suitable for matching with brown and coffee, and it is suitable for matching with other colors of upper materials. The material of the dress shoe label should be in harmony with the shoe material. Ordinary dress shoes use metal or imitation metal. sense of prestige.
The craftsmanship of the dress shoes sign is very important. A rough sign on the fine dress shoes will be extremely inconsistent and the overall quality of the shoes will be greatly reduced. The strip accessories on the strip tongue dress shoes are often the aesthetic visual center of this style of shoes, and designers should pay special attention to the design here. In addition to the novel and unique shape design of the horizontal bar accessories, the craftsmanship should also be considered in depth. The unique or delicate craftsmanship can make the horizontal bar accessories have a unique sense of craftsmanship, especially for the leather horizontal bar accessories. .
The color of the horizontal strip accessories on formal shoes is generally required to be consistent with the color of the upper material. If it is a metal part, both gold and silver can be used. Among them, silver is the most suitable for black upper materials. Leather and metal are the main materials for the selection of horizontal strip accessories. The leather material is soft, elegant, friendly and harmonious, while the metal material is cold, rigorous, confident and resolute.
The design of the accessories of the strap and ear buckle type formal shoes mainly focuses on the shoe drill. The shape design change of this kind of shoe is generally in the head shape of the shoe (last head shape), the shape change of the strap and shoe ear parts, and the shoe drill. It plays an important role in the composition of the overall shape of this style of shoes, and the designer should carefully design it. The shape design of the shoe drill should follow the principle of combining generosity and novelty. Only generous, not novel, will lose the decorative aesthetic function, and only novel (or weird) is not generous and will not match the nature of formal shoes.
In terms of color, brown or brown upper materials are suitable for gold or bronze shoes, and black upper materials are suitable for silver, gold and bronze. There are two types of shoe drills in terms of material texture: bright type and matt type. Under normal circumstances, the texture effect of accessories is relatively better than the texture effect of the upper material. For example, on the upper with diffuse reflection light texture such as crocodile skin and ostrich skin, matching a bright shoe drill will cause the upper to have a different texture. The beauty of contrasting materials.
The appearance of quasi-dress shoes is accompanied by the emergence of the western yuppie family. The so-called yuppie is a group of people who grew up in the 1950s and 1960s who are well educated, have higher income and social status, and are out of tune with society. They advocate freedom, pursue individual liberation, and are anti-traditional, but these people are gentle and reserved in their approach to things, not as wild and unruly as the punks that appeared later. In this way, some quasi-orthodox things that break the routine but maintain a certain connection with the tradition have become their pursuit, and quasi-dress shoes have emerged. Of course, those who like quasi-dress shoes are not necessarily yuppies, and some young people with individuality are becoming more and more obsessed with this type of shoes.
The design of quasi-dress shoes belongs to the "moderate" design. In the overall design style, it should not only have the traditional generous, dignified, elegant and noble side, but also have the innovative and individual side. On the whole, quasi-dress shoes are anti-conventional and anti-trend, but it does not completely abandon tradition. It shows the existence of individuality in tradition and creates a contradiction in harmony.
The shape design of quasi-formal shoes mainly includes head shape design, structural style design and upper part shape design. For the design of these three aspects, designers can make breakthroughs in one aspect or in several aspects. The innovative design in terms of shape has a greater impact on the overall design effect of formal shoes. The method of shape design is generally to make moderate changes or exaggerations on the basis of traditional styles. For example, the traditional three-section head style, the designer can make the head style of the shoes more pointed, square or thinner, and lengthened. The length ratio of the toe cap part to the mid-top part and the shoe ear part is changed, the shoe ear part becomes more square or round, and some decorative crafts and accessories can also be added.
The color picture 75 is a typical quasi-dress shoe. The designer made a bold design on the structural style of the shoe, and made a unique combination of a variety of traditional styles that people are familiar with. In order to break the orthodox style, the designer In addition, the middle seam on the front of the toe and the seams on both sides of the tongue, combined with the rough stitching process and material contrast, make this shoe shape novel and generous with a sense of disharmony and strangeness, which fully shows The unique taste of quasi-dress shoes.
In addition to the commonly used black, brown and coffee colors, the color design of quasi-dress shoes can also use brighter and brighter colors such as reddish brown, brownish yellow, beige, and white. From the color, the shoes are shaped into a sexy, showing the unique taste of quasi-dress shoes.
The material design of the dress shoes pays attention to the combination of different materials, such as patent leather and crocodile leather, embossed leather with unique patterns or woven leather and full-grain leather without patterns, etc., can obtain a unique visual effect. For quasi-dress shoes with metal accessories, full attention should be paid to the design and application of accessories. Accessories can go a long way in shaping the style of dress shoes. This effect is often manifested in the peculiar shapes, enlarged volumes and cool textures of accessories.